Having hiked a few classics and explored a few other non–published areas in Zion in the 5–6 years past, I was hooked! I know others that have experienced the same sensation. I found myself one day hesitantly walking up to the desk with Oak Creek in the background at the visitors center. I then asked the ranger on duty if I may peer at the 3–ring binders that were stashed away for those and only those that knew of them. Somewhat intimidated, I flipped one of them open and landed on an account of ‘Heaps Canyon’ by Royce Trapier. I had not heard of this canyon so I had to see what and where it might be. After seeing that it was a fairly gentle approach (up the West Rim) my interest peaked.
Reading further was just like adding wood to my fire. The descriptions
were vivid accounts of many awkward rappels into frigid pools of
water, scrambles across impossibly angled slabs of rock, climbs up log
jams that required every ounce of energy that could be mustered, but
what really stopped me for a second and third and fourth careful study
was something he described as the ‘Devils Pit.’
I believe the year was 1992?
I rounded up a couple friends that I had hiked Mystery Canyon and a
couple other classics with, (Mystery was not a classic back then) and
gave them my spiel! Carefully I assured them that this hike would be
an adventure not soon forgotten. I didn’t describe the hardships
experienced by Royce Trapier in an attempt he had made previous to his
successful Heaps bid. I didn’t want to lose any chance I may
have to recruit partners for this spellbinding hike.After placing a
rope at Upper Emerald Pool and leaving a vehicle at the Lodge, we made
our way to the trailhead at Lava Point.
The hike was easy but hot on
that June day, and by 1 PM we had arrived at a point that may or may not be the entry into Heaps. We had sucked down all of our water carried and I volunteered to run over to Cabin Springs to pump our bottles full of another dose of the clear elixir. When I had returned to the head of the canyon we were about to venture into, I realized that both of the partners I had so slyly recruited for this adventure were very dehydrated. I knew that the attempt was in jeopardy, so we took a vote and decided that it wasn’t to be. Behunin was just down the trail and we didn’t want to have hauled all that gear and not use it. It was a fun hike thru Behunin Canyon that day!
My thirst was just temporarily quenched. The next year I was able to get two other friends convinced. Mike was a skating buddy (played roller hockey together) and Mark was the owner of the roller rink that we played at. I had hiked Mystery with Mike but Mark hadn’t had the opportunity to even rappel yet. I took Mark out to a local Crag 2 days before our slated Saturday morning departure, and showed him the delicate intricacies of descending a rope. He did well and had fun. The night before the trip I went to the rink and met with the two, and explained that this would be a very difficult hike, probably the most difficult any of us may have ever experienced. I offered the chance to end it here and now (in a way I was hoping they would resign!), but they both said they would be ready at 4 AM.
• Second Time is a Charm •
Once again we drove up to the Lodge and I ran up and stashed the
requisite 300’ x 8mm accessory cord that would enable us to finish the
hike with all of our gear. We started up the West Rim this time from
the bottom. By 1 PM and slogging in the heat of the day, we arrived at
the spot that made sense for the descent. Down we go and after about
an hour of hunting, and pecking we found ourselves at a tree with
webbing. This is the start. Once we go down and pull our ropes we will
be committed (probably to an institution!).
Our packs were laden with lots of gear. I did not want to fail! My pack dry weighed 65 lbs. and Mark
and Mike carried a bit less, but then it was my idea so I had the
honors! We had 1100’ of various size and length rope, the questionable
by today’s standard full bolt kit with hooks, a set of cams and nuts,
my climbing shoes, overnight gear, food and water and FULL, THICK
WETSUITS rented from the local Dive shop. I didn’t want to fail this
attempt! We made the rappels with only having the rope jam twice,
re–ascending and then onward again.
As we looked thru the ever
deepening almost limestone textured rock, peering south toward ‘The
Crossroads,’ I mentioned that it was a lot like a ‘Gunsight.’ I think
the name stuck?
We arrived at the Slab of rock that I remembered in
the description. Carefully walk down and then place hands on the east
side and feet on west side and do a full body stem for the next 100
yards (Its easier to rappel this section). Holy Heck! You talk about a
workout! On to the next obstacles; a few rappels some short some long,
a couple swims, some short some long and Voila!
8 PM and we are just
above the Crossroads ... I think? We are beat ... lets settle in above the wash and cook some MRE’s (Yummy) and get some sleep for the Heaps Narrows in the morning!
It took a while to get packed and going, but by 8 AM we were on the
trail! I remember that at the Crossroads we need to ascend a very
steep ramp and then traverse 100 Yds. to a tree and then rappel 80’
into the ‘Alley.’ A tough start to the morning! (now I know that its
easier to just drop into the pool and walk around the corner!)
Well ... its 9:30 AM and we are here! Man does this canyon slot down in a
hurry! On with the wetsuits and batten down the hatches and DIVE!
Absolutely Stunning, unique, amazing and bitterly cold and wet! One
pothole to the next pothole to the next logjam to the next rappel...to
the next downclimb........on and on and on! It was unbelievable! Where
is the ‘Devils Pit’ I wondered? To a pothole, and its tougher to get
out. Need some shoving from behind. That reminds me! Mark, let me have
the bolt kit with the hooks since I’m leading ...
“What bolt kit?” Mark exclaims! “It fell
out in one of those swims and I wasn’t about to go diving!”
“Mark! I sure hope to ‘heck’ we don’t need it in
here! Onward!“
I kept saying, this must be the Devils Pit!
Geez!
There are a bunch of Devils Pits!
We came to a place that appeared to fit Royces
description best. This was it! Exit by scrambling up the 25’–high
logjam and down the backside...too easy? On the other side of the jam
a single log stretched across a deep pothole for 20’. Now this looked
super balancy and exciting! Put a rope around my waist in case I fall
and you can drag my butt out of there! Now your turn! Now to another
pothole but this time, no log; feet on one side and back on other and
inch across. We made it.
Downstream just a short distance, and I holler out, “Its a
20–foot drop and no anchors!”
Where’s the bolt kit when you think you need it? Could rig an anchor back off the logjam if needed, but one more glance, ahhhhh. There’s an old bolt hidden in a small alcove on the right!
The canyon is widening out now. A couple long rappels and now at the
end alas! Now where? I sort of remember that we have some very long
drops ahead but I forget where we should go? Drop into the huge
chimney overlooking Upper Emerald Pool? Nah! Too much work if its not
the anchors. So I head up on the ledge on the east side of the
chimney. Nothing, so it must be on the west side? I could jump across?
Nope ... too long to fall if I miss! So back down and after a short
scramble up a dirty corner and a bit of romping, I peak my head over
and shout ... grab this end of the rope and tie the packs on. Heave–ho
and up the packs come one at a time. Down to the anchor on a small
pine tree and a short 50’er to a big pine tree and some GRAND
EXPOSURE! Are those people down there? Yep! Next rap to the slanting
ramp at the chimney. Three of us were snug as a bug in a rug! Pull out
the 300’ x 8mm accessory cord that had been stashed in the
‘wet’ drybag and over I go! Dig around in the grass for a
bit, tie the stashed cord to the end and “Haul
Away!”
Mark comes
first after careful inspection by Mike (Mark was now on about his 15th
Rappel ever in his life) Down comes Mark with a little pressure from
my conditional belay. Next up...Mike on his way! A little more
assistance and at 9 PM we’re down! A couple handshakes and forced
smiles and a few night see’rs applaud and what do you know, there’s
some wives and friends to lend a hand with the final jaunt to the
vehicles and a promise of some ‘cold pizza and cold beer.’
Yee–haw!
I knew we wouldn’t fail.
Bo
© 2008 Bo Beck