
Eric Townsend called Andy and I at around 7:00 pm on a Sunday night. ``What are you guys doing tomorrow?''
``I dunno. Maybe get some work done.''
``Wanna climb the Grand instead?''
``Yes.''
``I'll pick you up in an hour.''
We scrambled to get everything ready, including borrowing the necessary equipment we didn't have. Our goal was to drive through the night, and climb the Grand Teton in a day. We were going to try either the Owen-Spalding route (5.4) or Exum Ridge (5.8) depending on time and weather.
We left Salt Lake City at about 10:30 (dinner, etc). We arrived in the park and were hiking by 3:40 am, Monday:
Garnet Canyon at around 5:30 am. Breakfast. 10 minutes.
Looking back down Garnet Canyon.
Andy and I suit up for the short glacier travel. Note the crevasses in the background. We spent 10 minutes or so playing in the snow, practicing self-arrest.
Andy and I schlepp up. Eric had crampons but no axe, so he split off from us. I kicked steps for Andy and myself.
This is my favorite photo from this trip. Just above us, the snow got kinda crappy so we took to the rock headwall instead. That could've been a mistake. It was muddy and loose. But the snow was scary; I could plunge my axe shaft all the way to the pick.
At the Lower Saddle, we took 30 minutes for lunch, a small nap, and sociallizing with the natives. Here is a marmot come to say hello.
We hang our gear and suit up for the technical part of the climb (which is starts another 800 feet above us).

Andy and I hiking up, take a minute to look back and see Eric with a gorgeous backdrop.
We decided to do the O-S route, but we had a great view of the beautiful Exum Ridge.
Here Andy and I dangle our feet after the traversing first pitch. It is about 8000 feet worth of exposure over this bowl.
13,766 feet. Andy and I enjoy the moment. I was feeling much better than I actually looked.
Eric and Andy on top.
We start down. That bowl is 7000 feet down and toppped with a 500 foot long snow slope.
The daylight fades. We made it back to the car at 1:45 am, Tuesday. 22 hours in all.
THE END